ISLE OF MULL
Coastal Route
Days 3 and 4
Craignure to Carsaig
19.4 miles (31.2 km) approx 8.5 hrs
This is the first leg of the Coastal Route which is quite straightforward but from Lochbuie onwards it becomes much more challenging (and should only be used by experienced walkers?). You will be rewarded with the most spectacular coastal scenery and a wonderful opportunity to observe wildlife – otters, porpoises, dolphins and on the land red deer and wild goats; and up above golden and sea eagles!
Starting at Craignure take the A849 to the Lochbuie Crossroads (684308). You then turn left to take the 8 mile single track road to Lochbuie. This route at first starts to climb steeply and takes you through a beautiful wood down onto the shores of Loch Spelve.
Further along just off the road at the head of Loch Uisg on the ridge of land separating Loch Spelve from Loch Uisg, there is a war memorial and the former Loch Spelve Church (built in 1828), which is now a private dwelling. Continuing along the road to Lochbuie you will see the parking spot for Lochbuie Standing Stones which date back to the Neolithic or Bronze age. There is much to see in this small scattered village especially St Kilda's Episcopal church which is well worth a visit and all of which you can find on line. As yet there is no B&B in the village but there is a campsite close to the tea room and small shop on the loch side.
Remember to check Carsaig Bay tide times as there is a place on this route which is impassable at high tide.
You now take the 5 mile coastal footpath to Carsaig . About a mile on and near to the track is St Columba’s well (590244); and further on again there is a rope-assisted step on this section which is also impassable at high tide which can cause a delay of about one hour.(Lochbuie to rope- 1hr 15 mins, rope to Carsaig - 1hr 20 mins). The scenery is stunning and a geologist’s delight – basalt cliffs, stacks & dykes; and the sea views get even better as you approach Carsaig looking across to Islay and Jura. On the foreshore of Carsaig bay you can visit the site of St Mary’s chapel and well; and also the burial ground (528216). From here, if you have the time
you can visit the Nuns’ cave (523204) which has remarkable carvings believed to date back to the 7th century. similar to those in the Scoor cave later on, on the route (418186). Some are believed to date back to the 7th century. In times of persecution the nuns from Ionahad to seek refuge in this cave. From here pilgrims can continue to Malcom’s Point either by the coast or above by the Nun’s Pass (521204).
Lochbuie to Carsaig
NB If accommodaton is not available in Carsaig you could choose to continue walking to Pennyghael, taking the road inland from Carsaig, approx a further 2 hours)
Craignure to Lochbuie Crossroads – 6.4 miles (10.3 km)
Crossroads to Lochbuie – 8 miles (13 km)
Lochbuie to Carsaig - 5 miles (8km) approx 2hrs 35 mins
Day 3 - (option 3) Craignure to Carsaig map - link below